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3- and 4-Series Cameras / Re: Camera for Edge HD8
« Last post by mariovissario on August 19, 2019, 07:15:59 PM »
I have the same type of setup. An RC 8" Astrograph with a 0.75x reducer.
To figure out the correct camera use this formula. ((pixel size of camera sensor divided by focal length of OTA) x 260). Use the result and use the table in the resource section of Atik website. You should be able to select a camera that is close to a 1:0 ratio. It reduces the likelihood of over saturating or under-saturating stars.
For what it's worth, I just got a 420 to Hyprestar my 8" edge.
3- and 4-Series Cameras / Re: ATIK 383L+ sensor type
« Last post by mariovissario on August 19, 2019, 07:15:41 PM »
Did anyone get an answer on this?
I have just sent the following to "" to get this information for my spectrometry.  I will post if/when I get a response.

I have an monochrome Atik 383L+ (serial number 1850864856) and I know it has the Kodak KAF-8300 sensor in it.
I have a diffraction grating and want to start bright star spectroscopy and so I need to know two things:
1)    How the sensor's quantum efficiency varies with wavelength.
2)    The wavelength response of the BBAR coated quartz optical window.

The quartz itself should be more-or-less flat response over the VIS-IR wavelengths but the BBAR coating may have an effect.

Can you please say what type of coating the 383L+ has?  I might hope it is something like the BBAR 633-1064 from CVI Melles Griot, with a wide transmission well matched to the 383L+;

I have found several graphs for the quantum efficiency of the KAF-8300 as a function of wavelength but which one I should choose depends upon the following:
1)    Whether the KAF-8300 has a microlens or not.
2)    Whether the KAF-8300 cover glass has its own AR coating or not.

Can you send me the information I need please?  An electronic format such as a .CSV file or Excel file would be ideal, but I can work from a printed graph if I have to.

Alternatively if you can tell me the exact part number for the sensor I can approach Truesense Imaging directly.  My guess is that the sensor is one of KAF-8300-AAB-CB, KAF-8300-AXC-CP, or KAF-8300-AXC-CD.

Thanks for your help,
Howard Shaw.
That is why I changed companies
3- and 4-Series Cameras / Re: problem with atik414 ex
« Last post by mariovissario on August 19, 2019, 07:15:06 PM »
Hello everybody , i,m new here and i have aquestion.
i used the atik 414ex for 2 years now and encountering the following problem.
I use the sequence generator pro program. If I start focusing automatically, my screen will show a lot of stars and the contours of the nebula. however, the stars have a small dot in the middle. (so not well focussed I think). When I make a recording of 5 min ha I get an almost black screen with a few stars.

If I subsequently take a picture of 5-10 seconds in frame and focus, it remains the same. a black screen with a few stars. Personally, I think it can have something to do with an ice layer or so on the sensor. but have the ccd a few days in the house and that must be thawed. However, this is not the case. Is this more known to members? if so what can be done about it. Greetings Ronn
Would you like to send us some sample fits files to and we will have a look at what is happening.
Hello all,
I purchased an ATIK 383L+ mono recently, but have only started using it in earnest in the last couple of weeks. The camera was bought new and I have it located in my remote observatory. I use Prism and SGPro (rarely) to take images, including calibration images. For now, my challenges are limited to calibration frames. Darks are fine, however, Bias frames are definitely an issue. I also have issues with Flats, but that maybe me, more so than anything else - but I will like help on that as well.

About the Bias frames -

I initially started taking Bias frames using the minimum suggested exposure time of 200ms. What I am noticing is that there is distinct light leak on to the camera sensor and as a result, the ADU is around 6000 (which is too high, ADU for darks is less than 10). I have always had CCD cameras in the past where the shutter would actually remain closed while taking Bias frames, so the assumption was that once I selected "Bias" frames in the image capture program (especially SGPro), the ASCOM driver would interpret that to mean the shutter needed to remain shut. That obviously does not happen given the high ADU value. As a result of that, I took 0s exposures both in Prism and SGPro - I was still seeing the same issue. (All this while, the Darks seem to be perfect - the point being, if I tell SGPro to take Darks, it seems to keep the shutter shut, not letting any light to leak on to the sensor, but that is not happening with Bias frames). Last night, I did take Bias frames using the Artemis software (again 0s exposures - I am not sure if there is a way to take "calibration frames" using Artemis - if there is, do please let me know how) - the result was much better with the ADU near 350. However, I would expect ADU for the Bias frames to be in the same range as the Dark frames - around 10. I tried calibrating one of my light frames with a SuperBias frame (created using PixInsight from about 25 Bias subs), but that did not seem to work. My only other option at this point is to use SGPro and trick the ASCOM driver by telling SGPro to collect a 0s "Dark" frame. I am not sure if that will work, but I am hoping it does. As a result, there are a few questions that I have -

1) The obvious one is - what am I doing wrong? Why can't I get the ADU values of the Bias frames to match (within a threshold if need be) with the Dark frames? (or more importantly, what is the best way to take Bias frames with this particular camera)?
2) Is there a way to take calibration frames (especially Bias and Dark frames) using Artemis software?
3) Does anyone believe there could be an issue related to the ASCOM driver itself - so that when I select BIAS in SGPro, it does not open the shutter? If so, is there a fix for that?

About the Flats -

I have an Alnitak Flip-flat that I use to collect flats. I usually keep brightness level around 50 on the Flip-flat. This results in an exposure time of 0.38s to achieve 24000 ADU level for my luminance filter (for all other filters, the exposure times are greater than 2s to achieve the same ADU level). I have read in other forums that with this particular camera, I need to take at least 2s flats, otherwise I will notice a shadow of the shutter on the flats (which I am pretty sure exists for luminance flats - I don't see that on RGB flats). So, I guess the question is - should I try reducing the brightness of the Flip-flat for luminance filter and ensure I take about 2-3s flats thereby eliminating any issues with shutter shadow? If so, shouldn't the advertised minimum exposure time be 2s and not 200ms? What am I missing?

If anyone wants a link to the calibration frames that I've taken, I will be more than happy to share those with on this forum.

Thanks for your help.

Neither the forum nor this company is very responsive to questions (I raised a question directly to the company many weeks ago and haven't received a reply yet; a reason of why I am buying other cameras required now from other vendors).
3- and 4-Series Cameras / Re: Atik 383l+ strange line at capture
« Last post by vince on August 19, 2019, 12:16:21 PM »

These types of lines can be caused by cosmic ray hits on the sensor and are normally of a low adu value, over time you will see them with the larger Kodak type sensors. They shouldn't get any worse. Darks and flats will usually remove them but they can also be removed in software such as MaximDL as Crooro mentioned.

Best regards
3- and 4-Series Cameras / Re: 314L+ cooling issue
« Last post by vince on August 19, 2019, 12:09:51 PM »
Hello Luca,

I'm sorry to say if the temperature is reading -59 degC then there is a hardware fault with either the temperature sensor or the wiring to it. The sensor is located under the CCD so to repair it would mean removing the CCD. This would best be left to us to do. If you could email Andrew will get back to you with what to do next if you want it repaired.

Best regards
3- and 4-Series Cameras / Re: 314L+ cooling issue
« Last post by Crooro on August 18, 2019, 09:38:19 PM »
But when you turn on the cooler it immediately marks you -59'C? Have you tried going down gradually 3-4'C until it reaches 0'C ... then when it reaches zero degrees go to 'Warm up' and turn off CCD. Then try to increase it and see what it does !?
3- and 4-Series Cameras / Re: Atik 383l+ strange line at capture
« Last post by Crooro on August 18, 2019, 09:33:51 PM »
Try using Maxim DL (Kernel filters-Dead & Hot Pixel)  ;)

Atik Air / Re: Does AtikAir work with any USB2 camera and other programs
« Last post by mariovissario on August 18, 2019, 07:29:44 PM »
Got a 383L, SBIG ST8 camera, Maxim DL6, Astroart 5. Looking to possibly replace the ST8 but I'm curious if the program works with Maxim or other software
it port through a USB shoestring to EQ6 mounts, nor USB to a robofocuser.  did some testing tonight.
Atik Air / Re: AtikAir advanced install on Raspian-stretch: no process found
« Last post by mariovissario on August 18, 2019, 07:28:58 PM »
Hi all
I am not a Linux guru. I have a RPi 3 B+ with raspian-stretch installed.

When doing the advanced AtikAir setup, which is basically installing manually, it ends with "no process found". below is what is shown on screen:
Service Setup
Ending Service
artemishscservice: no process found
Ending AtikAirService
atikairservice: no process found
Setup Complete!
Any ideas ?
to should be directed to My experience with the folks at Atik has been excellent when I've used the support method of contact.
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